tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19053592991133642252024-03-13T09:51:27.721-07:00The New HearthBlacksmith, Bladesmith, Designer and Dad.
Phone Loughborough, Leicestershire 01509 646444Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.comBlogger66125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-4666894193881533052016-09-21T13:41:00.000-07:002017-02-28T12:39:41.053-08:00Massey 2cwt "with-slides" Power Hammer Restoration, "BESSIE" <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Early
in July 2015, I received a phone call from John Nicholson at Massey in Manchester
advising me that he had heard of a machine that had become available in Norfolk
(about 90mins drive from me). It was fairly well known among the community that
I had been looking for a machine for some time (even looking as afar abroad as Malaysia
to repatriate a beautiful Alldays and Onion 1cwt,Germany for a Beche L4, Italy
and France for other Machines. The reason for all of these instances not
coming into fruition being the exorbitant cost of transport [particularly the Malay
example, </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">as there are additional cost when
something has to pass through port]) </span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">These machines are becoming increasingly</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">
</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">rare. With dwindling numbers </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">in
existence thanks due to the "scrap everything" policy of
Administrators when a business goes into liquidation-our sector in particular
as many of the light and medium forging companies used to be fairly large
employers, with numerous pieces of forging equipment under one roof. When
those business fell through in the 70's 80's & 90's, alot of machinery was
lost overnight. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">So there's that, but then there is also the fact that in the current climate of
their scarcity, those who have these machines tend to hold on to them (I know I
will!).</span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">This all adds up to make their availability
increasingly limited. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">So! With this in mind I was excited and surprised to hear of a piece of
equipment </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;">that was available and so
close. </span><span style="font-size: 11pt;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">The piece was being sold by a certain Mr Bill Corduroy- a well known name in
the British blacksmith crowd (In fact, it was a real bonus that this hammer was
being sold by Bill- it was such a treat that I got to meet Bill who is hands down one of the
nicest people I have met). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 11pt;">I made travel arrangements and went to view the hammer and bought it right
away. </span></div>
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This is the situation it was in- Bill had bought this hammer
about 25 years ago with the intention of
"putting it in". However, the enormity of that task coupled with his busy, successful
career meant that he simply never got around to it. It is often said these days
that power hammers tend to be owned by two or three persons before someone
actually installs it. They tend to become a "Feature" or "Yard Art". <br />
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The Hammer had been standing here in Bill's yard for about 25 years and Bill though it had not run
for a while when he bought it from an industrial smithy- so lets call it 30
years. It had, however been under cover
for all that time and greased somewhat
when put away. The grease will prevent the majority of water ingress,
but it has the surprising effect of becoming quite adhesive when left to
oxidise for years- effectively gluing the system together. </div>
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After speaking to another staple of Norfolk blacksmithing, Nigel Barnett of
Fransham forge (who has a alot of experience moving big heavy things around) I
got the number of a guy with a flat bed and hiab and we got the old girl delivered
to Leicestershire</span><br />
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Spending the money is the easy part, now came the real work. I had zero movement in the fly wheel when
pushing by hand so I had to take the cylinder covers off to have a look at what
was going on inside. <br /><br />
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fly wheel is attached to the compressor cylinder by a large con-rod, so that
when the wheel makes one rotation the compressor cylinder has made one full
stroke- up and down, once.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
removed the cover on the compressor cylinder- as you can see I found quite a
lot of well developed crusty rust. People tend to think of rust as soft,
powdery or brittle but when you have two
well fitting surfaces next to one another and a film of corrosion, what you actually
have is an incredibly strong adhesive. In a components such as a large piston and
cylinder these forces combined to make something fairly immutable.</span></div>
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I was glad that part of the cylinder was exposed as this
offered me a "way in" - if the compressor had been all the way up to
the top it would have been harder to clean and get back to free movement. The best way to proceed was scrape clean all
the exposed parts I could get into so I could begin to feed cylinder with
penetrating oils and fluids (quite a lot of diesel went through it too which
has quite impressive rust easing capabilities).</div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">At
this point I moved on to the hammer cylinder itself, which we discovered was
pretty clean and after an arbitrary wipe out with a cloth, we decided to jack
up the hammer head to see if we had movement- which we did. So we put an inch
of machine oil at the bottom of the cylinder and moved on.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
Its important to understand that these images are slightly out of sequence and
that the amount of time taken on the project has thus far not been addressed. Truth is, that I have too many images of the
job for it to be interesting- I could have included before, during and after
photographs of every single element but I feel that would in all likelihood become
a bit boring for all but the most ardent machine enthusiasts. Also, many of the
components are internal so the before shots would illustrate very little, other
than the component being stuck inside.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
A good example of this is the Valve, which spent over two weeks being fed with
oil and gentle pressure before becoming unstuck. <br />
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This is the valve, which in my Massey is
the later "vertical type" (as opposed to the earlier models which had
a simpler "horizontal" valve, which is much more common feature of
power hammers across many different brands such as Alldays and Pilkington). The
valve is about 30" long and comprised of multiple free- spinning disks
some of which has small springs to maintain a seal. The disks are not symmetrical
or repeating and as such their order of assembly was crucial. These disk all
assemble over a central rod which is threaded at both end in order to keep the piece together. additionally, the disks are cast iron and are brittle. <br />
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This component was again totally fused together with corrosion which you can
see in the image as the wet (oil) gritty material. It should be noted that this
is only about 1/3 of the valve as the rest of it at this point was still
contained within the valve cylinder. I
was lucky that despite the surface corrosion, that my valve assembly need
little work other than cleaning. <br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
spent alot of time up here. <br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 16.8667px;">Sometimes there were ducks...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I
got a friend to blast the most of the grime and paint of which was quite
spectacular- i had not realised just how loud grit blasting was until that
point. <br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">We
had covered all of the vent and access point up as best we could to make sure
as little grit got in as possible. <br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Once
she was naked I put some red oxide primer on which dried to a rather attractive
salmon pink.</span></div>
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It was only after several weeks that I had managed to get enough movement on
the piston to remove it and address the rust frozen piston rings, which need to
be free spinning and able to expand. Again I was lucky that none of these
needed swapping as they were all in good condition. <br />
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I will just explain how I got the compressor cylinder free as it may be of
use to someone in a similar position. <br />
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Because the cylinder covers are built to take the pressure of the machine in
action- they are strong, this is your advantage. Refer back to the previous
image of the piston when it was first exposed, there was a gap of about three
inches between the top of the piston and the top of the cylinder. What you need
to do is fill the cylinder with some kind of rust penetrating fluid, as
mentioned before. Then use a large piece of timber that is thicker than the gap
(in this case 3" gap = 4" timber packer) and place the timber packer
on top of the stuck piston and then return the cylinder cover plate to where it
should be, attach all of the bolts and carefully ratchet them all down so the
cylinder cap is applying the pressure in a radial fashion. keep going round the
bolts giving a little tighten to each of
them until the cover plate has gone all the way down. if you then take the
plate off and add additional packers you will eventually force the piston all
the way down to the bottom giving you free access to clean the cylinder. Oil it
and try to manually push the piston back up using the fly wheel - if this works
and you have movement (even slow stiff movement) then you are winning. push the piston back up and prop it in place
so that you can clean the cylinder behind it. <br />
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It not impossible that this method won't work <span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">and
that your piston will remain stuck in position</span>, but it should be tried first if you
have a piston that is stuck or seized. Other
methods which work are to apply heat with small fires or heat guns- you do this
at your own risk. I personally don't know anyone who has cracked a cylinder
doing this, but it is possible. I would suggest however that if your power
hammer cylinder cracks after lighting a paper fire in it- then it was probably
junk anyway. Also a cracked cylinder is
not worth repairing in most cases unless you have facility fully testing a
repair up to industry standards. I have first hand accounts of some of the
largest industrial smithies having hammers with repaired or modified cylinders exploding
and killing operators.<br /><br />EDIT- Whilst I acknowledge that air hammers are essentially quite low in terms of their operating PSI of air pressure. I personally wouldn't buy an hammer with cracks or evidence of extensive repair. That said, I certainly wouldn't refuse a repaired hammer If i was offered it for free. </div>
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At this point I had a machine which was mechanically ok (as
best as I could evaluate) So it was time for me to proceed on to the ground
work. Which was utterly exhausting. I
had told myself to hire a mini digger and smash the job just as quickly as
possible. Brilliant advice that I soundly ignored. <br />
<br />
Instead, I decided that I would just "have a go by hand and see how it
goes". I think at this point I was trying to save a few pennies. I prepared
the area for the ground work and cut the perimeter with a floorsaw and the then
cut then interior into 12" squares. At the corner of each square I drilled
right through with a sds 20mm bit. When that was all done I thought -"that's
probably enough- I will have compromised it for sure!". So, with full
confidence I lifted the 24lb sledge we keep for just such emergencies right
above my head and brought it fully down to the middle of the well--perforated crisscross.
<br />
<br />
No effect. I tried again and again for half an hour hitting the same position (the
centre-where I assumed to be "weakest") and the floor of the workshop
just laughed at me. It was a this point I phoned the tool hire people and got a kango floor breaker in which was, frankly miraculous, but still incredibly exhausting
to use! When I eventually found my way
through the concrete (which turned out to be a bit more than 8" thick,
with steel re-enforcement) and exposed the earth underneath, things became a
little easier as you are suddenly able to nibble away at the edge of the hole you've
made. The added bonus then is that the tip of the breaker goes very easily into
the soil, becoming stuck each time.</div>
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After I had cleared away the one ton of concrete floor
rubble, it was time to start excavating. It was at this point I should have got
a digger in as the sub soil turned out to be pure red and blue clay (no
actual soil whatsoever) with large granite stones throughout. It was very difficult
going as the clay totally absorbed the impact of the spade making it very hard
to pick up any meaningful amount at one time. <br />
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My brother stopped by for some encouragement- I was about
dead by this point.</div>
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Despite being hard going, it did make a beautiful hole! </div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
bottom was filled and leveled with sieved hard core. Large ply wood board onto
this, then alternating layers of cork board and dense conveyor belt rubber
matting. this was an ad-hoc solution to isolate the vibrations. Proper fabreeka
matting would have added a few grand and was not called for given my location. <br />
on top of this we built a water tight board container, and isolated this from
its surroundings with 50mm polystyrene. We fabricated the cage that held the floor
bolts and the recess for the anvil and lowered this in place. This was welded in situ to prevent movement
during the concrete pour- the bottom of the anvil recess was removable to allow
for removal of air bubbles. </span></div>
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two pack self leveling floor compound poured onto the raw concrete. Ready for the machine movers! </div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Some
more paint<br />
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Three musketeers.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">After
all that I 'spose I should show you what she does. <br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/H3CqC5xlvyY/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/H3CqC5xlvyY?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<br /><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/YaAN-mkEHq4/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YaAN-mkEHq4?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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After all that I spose I should show you what she does. </div>
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The dates on the photographs tell me how long it took. </div>
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The first image when I just met her for the first time is the 7th of July 2015
and the first image I have of her running is 15th December so that is five months of work and organising
others. </div>
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A big labour but a major benefit.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Oh, and my Daughter named her
"BESSIE", her serial number is 11253 and she is 95 years young. </span></div>
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<br />Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-54524791016027149242016-08-24T03:47:00.001-07:002016-08-24T03:47:17.124-07:00A Year Later<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: start;">A year later. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Too much to do, not enough time- same old excuses. You could call the last year "R&D", you could call at least two months of last year "Moving Giant Machines Around and Digging Giant Holes". You could also simply call it "Getting Ready". </span><br />
<br style="text-align: start;" />
<span style="text-align: start;">I made a lot of things last year, so many of them worth uploading here, but I'm going to limit myself to showing five or six images of work, just to help get the old Blog show back on track.</span><br />
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three traditional, forge welded carpenters axes of various styles</div>
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Small jewelers raising hammer</div>
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Nano Carving axes</div>
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The real changes have been in the heavy equipment field. <br />
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The first, resounding addition to my arsenal is my 1921 Massey 2 CWT (110kg)
power hammer which I bought, stripped, rebuilt, restored and installed last
summer. Here is a photo of her in her
freshly applied green (6002 emerald Green! ) warpaint. I will do a blog entry all
about her very soon. Including a few videos of her throwing down. </div>
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Needless to say, the metal moving capability of this beast is simply remarkable
compared to my 30kg goliath spring hammer. I am now limited by the metal I can
heat up and carry, rather than the size of stock I that my gear can handle. <br />
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So that takes care of the large end of the spectrum. I have
also collected my first ever piece of NEW (except hand tools such as grinders
etc..) equipment, this Anyang 25kg (55lb)</div>
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I bought this hammer to compliment my new "annex" workshop which
houses our traditional solid fuel forge
and also provide a real delicate, finessed type of hammer blow (that is not to
say the Massey is not controllable- you can really be very delicate with it if
required)<br />
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This brings us on to the Coke forge itself, which has been a wonderful addition
and so pleasant to use after years of standing next to gas furnaces. I was
"brought up" on a solid fuel forge and having the use of it really feels like coming home in a lot of
ways. It was all fine and dandy until after only 10 weeks of use the forge fan,
after only the slightest adjustment to the electrical "rheostat" controls made a loud pop and caught fire.
This lead to a 5 week wait on a replacement fan and after installing the new
one, the rheostat doesn't work properly so I am stuck permanently on "half
air", which for these fans is an awful lot, so my fuel consumption is
rather high. these frustrations are sent to try us, I am sure. ... <br />
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My Dad using the Forge</div>
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You can't have a forge without an anvil! So here is my lovely 2cwt, wrought
double bick. possibly made by Peter Wright but stamped "Birmingham"
(manufacturers of all sorts of things used to sell on stock to distributers
back then and mark them as they wished. it's possible that this anvil is a
"second" and thus not stamped PW)
The stand was a nice bit of improve- a basic frame made up in steel then
lined with scrap pallet wood and filled with concrete. The base weighs around 150 kg and is totally
stable. It is also ideal for fixing tool racks onto as you can fix straight
into the concrete with rawl plugs and coach screws. After a few days use,
enough iron scale had worked its way under the feet of the anvil to totally
deaden the ring. Tidy. <br /><br /><br />
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Ive also picked up this nice vertical bandsaw
(which promptly caught on fire after it's second use, causing an all out
panic as the "on-fire" parts were totally sealed away under a panel
held on with eight Allen key screws...)
after the fire was dealt with (it was an electrical fault in the inverter) it
sat, sulking in the corner for over a year awaiting me to organise and install
replacement parts. Which I did!... eventually..<br /><br /><br />
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Since it's resurrection, I have been very pleased with its performance, and
overall usefulness. <br />
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I also bought a large pedestal grinder which... promptly caught on fire! (old
age, the motor was just fully burned out). The grinder is still sulking, or is
it me that is sulking...? Anyway- anyone want a grinder?- it's cheap! )<br /><br />
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Between re-organising my workshop, spending all of my money on century old cast
iron and putting out electrical fires, I have also spent a good amount of time
working with my friend and all round good egg Owen Bush on various exciting
projects including this giant sword for this years "Arctic Fire" as well as other things.<br />
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-1548385197086360602015-05-21T16:19:00.000-07:002015-05-21T16:19:05.564-07:00Six Months Of Progress<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Neglected for months, left abandoned without even a passing
hello, this page has sat.... <br />
<br />
September to May is quite a pause- so Happy Halloween,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Xmas and new year, St valentines,
Easter,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>May Day and soon to-be Whitsun. <br />
<br />
The flat reality has been that I have simply been too busy to maintain this
page effectively so i will do a keep run-through over a handful of blog post to
bring the page up-to-date with various projects and works I've engaged with
since my last post. <br />
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With big changes a comin' to how I work,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I am also (AGAIN!!) re-affirm my promise to hold this page in a better
state of maintenance with more regular postings. <br />
<br />
In order to rattle through the last couple of months of work, I'm going to pick
out a heap of pictures to post here today and then revisit the subjects in
coming weeks to discuss them in greater detail. <br />
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Also, would just quickly like to thank HUNDREDS of you who drop in regularly to
see if there’s anything new…. Sorry for the wait! </span></div>
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<br /> Research trip to Ernest Wright and Sons scissor factory, Sheffield</div>
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Saddle grinders</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Unfinished blanks</span></div>
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A proper furnace! </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><br />Experiments in Scandinavian socketed axes </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ktltNxgipqQ/VV5UguXzNdI/AAAAAAAABTg/I4xMzcNPwe8/s1600/DSCF5772.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ktltNxgipqQ/VV5UguXzNdI/AAAAAAAABTg/I4xMzcNPwe8/s400/DSCF5772.JPG" width="400" /></a><br /><br />Wrought Iron Bell Clappers</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Medieval carpenters axe</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hand forged wrought iron left-handed Thumb-bow for tailors cutting shears. (More to come!)</span></div>
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Stone Mason's Toothed "axe" </div>
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<br />5lb Jersey Pattern felling axe</div>
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<br />Ripple Ash hafted camp axe</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">"swan neck" gouge</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QK830PwbpOQ/VV5WUB1Y65I/AAAAAAAABUw/zduLxW02nRs/s1600/DSCF8871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QK830PwbpOQ/VV5WUB1Y65I/AAAAAAAABUw/zduLxW02nRs/s400/DSCF8871.JPG" width="300" /></a><br /><br />Wrought Iron and steel Hunter's Knife</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z4iaPpP0068/VV5XLrMM7DI/AAAAAAAABVQ/xCaS_LhryfU/s1600/DSCN6384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z4iaPpP0068/VV5XLrMM7DI/AAAAAAAABVQ/xCaS_LhryfU/s400/DSCN6384.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YDup_Pfz4-8/VV5XdvPLPYI/AAAAAAAABVY/QbS4gXol6lU/s1600/DSCN6401.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YDup_Pfz4-8/VV5XdvPLPYI/AAAAAAAABVY/QbS4gXol6lU/s400/DSCN6401.JPG" width="300" /></a><br /><br />Forging Tailors Shears- more pictures to come! <br /><br />Photos by Anna Lucia Sadler</span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-19625476134239427752014-09-30T07:33:00.000-07:002014-09-30T07:33:08.258-07:00Portland works- Andy Cole. <span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I have known of Sheffield' Portland Works for sometime but a few months ago I decided to head down and check the place out for myself. <br /><br />The heritage of this place is impressive, being the main building associated with original conception and implementation of stainless steel. </span><a href="http://www.portlandworks.co.uk/history/the-tale-of-portland-works-and-the-invention-of-stainless-steel"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">http://www.portlandworks.co.uk/history/the-tale-of-portland-works-and-the-invention-of-stainless-steel</span></a><br /><br /><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">The premises is also unique as it is the only property of it's type still standing in its original use as a site of metalworking and cutlery. all others having been demolished or converted. <br /><br />This time, I came to meet with tool maker who occupies the original 19thC smithy in the centre of the courtyard- Andrew Cole.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-swFTMSYp0h0/VCq4Rm7SDPI/AAAAAAAABOE/Feq_0UjV8N8/s1600/DSCF8046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-swFTMSYp0h0/VCq4Rm7SDPI/AAAAAAAABOE/Feq_0UjV8N8/s1600/DSCF8046.JPG" height="168" width="640" /></span></a><br />
<br /><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Andy first started working at this forge in 1978, first under Wigful Tools and later his own company.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Whilst I was there we discussed the kind of work he had on at that time, which included forging several hundred socketed wood carving chisels. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I took some footage of him working that shows his well rehearsed and impressive "spinning" technique that means the work is put into "closed dies" that are each one half of the final form you are making. By keeping the work turning evenly you create a smooth finish on the work. <br /><br />Loud video </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"><object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/-y_TvLlZ5a4/0.jpg"><param name="movie" value="https://www.youtube.com/v/-y_TvLlZ5a4?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/v/-y_TvLlZ5a4?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></span></div>
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<br /><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">I had some real envy over some of Andy's gear, particularly his larger Paterson mech hammer but his more unusual equipment included his old fashioned saddle grinder. <br /><br />These large wheel stone grinders used to be common around Sheffield and other blade making centres around Europe but have now largely disappeared. Its always impressive to see them running... and to think that there used to be many, very much lager stone wheel in use. <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/k_L9j8PHeBM/0.jpg"><param name="movie" value="https://www.youtube.com/v/k_L9j8PHeBM?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/v/k_L9j8PHeBM?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object><br /><br /></span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zX3Soz1H4CY/VCq9aNhaxbI/AAAAAAAABOU/uSWOVa96pzg/s1600/DSCF8080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zX3Soz1H4CY/VCq9aNhaxbI/AAAAAAAABOU/uSWOVa96pzg/s1600/DSCF8080.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></span></a><br /><br /><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: large;">Andy's knowledge and breadth of experience is impressive and his workshop is pretty much an ideal set up for forging tools.<br /><br />Im a little jealous....</span> <br /></div>
Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-50354262808324866962014-08-05T04:57:00.000-07:002014-08-05T05:24:59.936-07:00Forging a Tudor Hammer<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once again I find myself apologising for a long rest between
postings and a promise of more regular updates from here-on…. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Months ago, a customer and friend asked me to make him a
carpenter’s claw- hammer head with a form strongly based on several historic
examples from the Tudor era. <br />
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Whilst not having the opportunity to study any of the originals myself, I was
provided with a range of photographs that clearly showed the dimensions of the
object.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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Not being able to view the original also means not being able to determine
exactly how they were made, but it can be a safe bet that they were not made
from a single piece of steel, more likely an iron body with forge welded steel
face and claws. <br />
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It just so happens that, at the time, I had some antique “shear steel” that was
a close approximation of the steel that might have been used on the original
hammers we were trying to emulate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
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The first job was to fold and weld the shear onto itself to produce a piece of
stock large enough to form the face and the claws. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">also made up a piece of wrought by the same process of “stacking” and welding.
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Both the face and the claws were welded on by
forming them into a “staple” shape wrapping around the wrought- they were
hammered tight and then forge welded together. <br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> <span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br />After both ends of the hammer had its steel parts attached, a hole was punched
and worked until it was the desired shape. </span><br />
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The whole hammer was the filed and details added as seen on the original
examples. <br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Most
of these great pictures were taken by Robert Nicholson who also happens to be a
very skilled Greenwood worker. Here’s his Fb page. <br />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><a href="https://www.facebook.com/Robsgreenwoodwork">https://www.facebook.com/Robsgreenwoodwork</a><br /><br /><br />Thanks Rob! <br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-53306016514576603252014-04-17T07:20:00.002-07:002014-04-17T07:20:29.681-07:00Spud<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Many tools have gained peculiar names over years of use, evolution
and passing between cultures. <br />
<br />
The Twybyl, is a corruption of “two bill” meaning two blades (one axe like and
the other adze like.) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Anvils have a Bick
(not horns…) from Beak- but I cannot say what the root of the “Spud” is.<br />
<br />
What the tool is, however, is a bark- scraper for de-barking a felled tree
prior to hewing, riving or other process. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It consists of a single bevelled blade with a
sturdy socket at an angle or “cant”. A long handle, helve or haft is driven in
to the socket by ways of carving a closely matched taper and the tool is pushed
along the log with the single bevel naturally biting in-between the harder
timber and the bark, prying it away in great lengths. <br />
<br />
Tools like this have also been used where the bark itself is the product. <br />
<br />
When I was first asked to make a “Spud” by a friend and correspondent in the Netherlands,
I did at first think of a potato.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Misleading and slightly silly the name may be,
but I think it is important to keeps the old names alive. It’s the facets of an
object that intrigue and excite me- by using the correct terms for traditional tools,
we are not pedants but instead allow a thing to sit in our culture, heritage
and language with its own distinct character. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It also makes me smile. <br />
<br />
So a spud it shall remain! <br />
<br />
The customer wanted the blade to be a laminate, with a closed socket. The blade
also had to have a spur forge welded on- this aids turning the log.<br />
<br />
The first part to be made was the socket; this was cut from 4mm mild steel
sheet and formed into a tapering tube with the aid of my big fly press before
being forge weld over a tapering hexagonal mandrill I had forged.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eMGfdbDEYt4/U0-4R2Z8S1I/AAAAAAAABI0/quI4Ruw-Qf8/s1600/DSCF5388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eMGfdbDEYt4/U0-4R2Z8S1I/AAAAAAAABI0/quI4Ruw-Qf8/s1600/DSCF5388.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">This
picture is taken out of chronological order, but it shows the material cross-section
once the welding was completed. </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2dARQeGxhN4/U0-0gu1O2CI/AAAAAAAABIg/QPNttOjJqNI/s1600/DSCF5397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2dARQeGxhN4/U0-0gu1O2CI/AAAAAAAABIg/QPNttOjJqNI/s1600/DSCF5397.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">One
of the reasons there has been no blogging from me for a few weeks is that I have
been very busy! This is also the reason why I haven’t been as thorough as I used
to with photography, so there are unfortunately no pictures of the welding on
this project. But I must ask- how many images of hot metal does the internet
really need…?<br />
<br />
Apologies all the same. <br /><br /><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Back
in the order of process, two pieces of steel were forged to the same sizes, one
of 0.6 carbon steel and the other of mild. These were forge welded together and
a protrusion was forged at the back, to be inserted into the socket. </span></span><br />
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<br />
Once the two parts were suitably fitted, I heated the blade and inserted it
into the cold socket, with the whole arrangement in the vice the “tang” was
spread inside the socket, essentially “riveting” the structure together.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This fix was preliminary to the forge welding
phase that firmly bonded the pieces together. <br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
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The spur was split away from the body but also re-enforced with additional
carbon steel, forge welded all together and drawn out to a sharp point. </span><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uaJzQ4_thTA/U0_LuU1teGI/AAAAAAAABJw/vNfbwTU79Lg/s1600/DSCF5414.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uaJzQ4_thTA/U0_LuU1teGI/AAAAAAAABJw/vNfbwTU79Lg/s1600/DSCF5414.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VIrDgFyAU_8/U0_LvuB7LPI/AAAAAAAABJ4/p7hee_umdw4/s1600/DSCF5416.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VIrDgFyAU_8/U0_LvuB7LPI/AAAAAAAABJ4/p7hee_umdw4/s1600/DSCF5416.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jj0rbnguPis/U0_LtFVqX_I/AAAAAAAABJo/8xrwz8V9F7Q/s1600/DSCF5420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jj0rbnguPis/U0_LtFVqX_I/AAAAAAAABJo/8xrwz8V9F7Q/s1600/DSCF5420.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">After
the piece was finished it was wire brushed and thoroughly waxed to protect it. </span><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dRyvJHRsWnM/U0_i5igk0uI/AAAAAAAABKI/4XXpcmqS2e4/s1600/DSCF5426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dRyvJHRsWnM/U0_i5igk0uI/AAAAAAAABKI/4XXpcmqS2e4/s1600/DSCF5426.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-30905360091156245782014-02-23T16:27:00.001-08:002014-02-23T16:27:47.393-08:00Gogmagog (The Giant)<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have a friend and now repeated customer who lives in the
heart of rural wales. He keeps coming back to me with proposals for interesting
projects. Most recently he asked me to make a really big felling axe, around 7
lbs. <br />
<br />
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most modern axes used for forestry are between
1.5 and 3 lbs, with the large Gransfors “American felling axe” coming in at 3 lbs- so
7lbs is quite a lump. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">I should add that a 7lbs axe is not a “fantasy”
axe. There were many manufacturers from before the age of the chainsaw who made
felling axes of 7 or 8lbs- I’m sure there are examples out there of even bigger
axes made for serious work. <br />
<br />
I’m always excited by projects that are outside of my current experience. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Attempting something dramatically different to
what you have done before forces you to work in a different way. With an axe
this large every aspect was more difficult with factors like the radiant heat
setting fire to my hammers and top sets, the large weight held in tongs making
moving the work more tiring and awkward, the large surface area being
forge-welded needing particular care to avoid inclusions and again the size of
the piece being larger than the flatter on my power hammer.<br /><br /><br />
<br />
I have over the past few months been working exclusively with welded eye (as
opposed to punched eye) techniques for producing my axes, mostly using
variations on the “bowtie” or symmetric wrapped method where thick starting
stock is divided either side of the centre (which becomes the poll) the two
thinner projections from either side are folded forward and welded together to
form the eye. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because of the size of
this axe, I decided that the wrapped method was not the way to go, instead I
wanted to use a method I had read about in Jim Kauffman’s “American Axes” which
described forging two separate halves in symmetry then welding them together
with the edge steel as a third piece. The benefit of this method would be the
good access to the interior of the eye, allowing it to be carefully formed. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">I had tried this method once before with a nano 2oz axe and it worked well. So, I
was keen to get on it- it also meant that fifty percent of the axe was being
heated whilst the other was being worked, this makes sense with large pieces of
steel as it takes much longer to work and you can only work so much before it is
too cool. <br />
<br />
The starting stock was two pieces of plate, 20x 120x 75mm. These were marked at
the centre then an area 30mm across was marked out off-centre, this division is
what would become the eye, if it was marked out centrally, then you would have
an even amount of mass either side of the eye, meaning that the point of
balance of the as yet un-steeled axe would also be in the exact middle of the
stock. This would be ineffective as the stock will be forged out,
redistributing the weight, causing a hafted axe to droop in the hand as it
would be “bit heavy”. To compensate for this and also to move the point of
balance (hereafter referred to as POB) forward to the first quartile of the
eye, the stock was divided thusly. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cBAelhxSlkc/UwpkBYjiMFI/AAAAAAAABE8/kVkyNucK5cQ/s1600/DSCF4054.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cBAelhxSlkc/UwpkBYjiMFI/AAAAAAAABE8/kVkyNucK5cQ/s1600/DSCF4054.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4WcILVeoG3I/UwpjRWOcf0I/AAAAAAAABE0/X70ru5srgHU/s1600/DSCF4056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4WcILVeoG3I/UwpjRWOcf0I/AAAAAAAABE0/X70ru5srgHU/s1600/DSCF4056.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br />Because the material was too wide for my power-hammer ( I currently only have
the one block which is divided into a fuller and a flatter.) we had to work the
metal traditionally, with striking and the use of “top-sets”- firstly fullering
to divide the stock then set hammers and flatters, all interspersed with direct
hammer work, manoeuvring all about the anvil. It is a pleasure to work like
this with my father, it is too noisy and too quick to talk between blows, so cat
calls, shouts and yelps signal stop-an-go, heavier, faster, slower- I wish that
there was enough work for us to forge like this often, which is why I so enjoyed
this chance to have at it.<br /><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
</span><br />
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Heres a quick video which is, as usual, very noisy! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/8J65zX1ubK8?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0QM_UJ_aXIo/Uwpt3N5sZcI/AAAAAAAABFg/JepQz0CkAbk/s1600/DSCF4068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0QM_UJ_aXIo/Uwpt3N5sZcI/AAAAAAAABFg/JepQz0CkAbk/s1600/DSCF4068.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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</span><br /><br /><br /></span><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Once both sides were fully worked, they were offered up and found to match
together well. Here they are shown with my Gransfors for scale. We begin to get
the impression for the scale. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TX1qaCnXaWo/Uwpr1_ht3AI/AAAAAAAABFU/Csfzba-wjRo/s1600/DSCF4098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TX1qaCnXaWo/Uwpr1_ht3AI/AAAAAAAABFU/Csfzba-wjRo/s1600/DSCF4098.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The
internal faces were ground clean to give the welding the best start, they were
brought together with the steel inserted. The piece was then brought up to heat
and welded under the hammer. <br />
<br />
Loudness abounds, man. <br /></span><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/vbCQxjjoNV8?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br /><br /><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">After
the welds were set, it was a case of pulling the steel into the right shape. </span><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nCt6g-nmJ4E/UwqBwuAmucI/AAAAAAAABF8/MegWdjzs6CI/s1600/DSCF4213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nCt6g-nmJ4E/UwqBwuAmucI/AAAAAAAABF8/MegWdjzs6CI/s1600/DSCF4213.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fs2JhIUIkHA/UwqBvDZ_SqI/AAAAAAAABF0/VRyuJ94KIAg/s1600/DSCF4215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fs2JhIUIkHA/UwqBvDZ_SqI/AAAAAAAABF0/VRyuJ94KIAg/s1600/DSCF4215.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JFoeB8fUumg/UwqCTZaMrHI/AAAAAAAABGk/UhDFVX_-ZhE/s1600/DSCF4312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JFoeB8fUumg/UwqCTZaMrHI/AAAAAAAABGk/UhDFVX_-ZhE/s1600/DSCF4312.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br />
Here it shows the point of balance being the front of the eye, as anticipated. <br /></span><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AgSd5p4TT4U/UwqIB7L_OaI/AAAAAAAABG4/lDISgdJAuFY/s1600/DSCF4331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AgSd5p4TT4U/UwqIB7L_OaI/AAAAAAAABG4/lDISgdJAuFY/s1600/DSCF4331.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br /><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br />
Here’s hardening. </span></div>
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And here’s finished. <br /></span><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MujPytcnN30/UwqKgNdjHDI/AAAAAAAABHE/a9QWe1eTQN8/s1600/DSCF4340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MujPytcnN30/UwqKgNdjHDI/AAAAAAAABHE/a9QWe1eTQN8/s1600/DSCF4340.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SVcZ6fxzV78/UwqMU2MZ92I/AAAAAAAABHY/EE05M5IyeeA/s1600/DSCF4370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SVcZ6fxzV78/UwqMU2MZ92I/AAAAAAAABHY/EE05M5IyeeA/s1600/DSCF4370.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<br />The customer was really keen to haft it himself so he felled an ash tree and cut a piece a few weeks before the axe was ready and dried next to the stove, weighing it each day. When he received the head and the haft was ready he put it together and sent me these pictures. The haft is 44 inches long and weighs a few pounds itself. <br /><br /><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
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I think the axe finished up beautifully, it has great character and presence
and cuts beautifully too. I’m proud of this piece but also grateful to have
been given the chance <span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">to
work in a new way</span> . <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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_________________________________________________________________________________________<br /><br /><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Gogmagog
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<br />
Gogmagog is a giant from British mythology, given the size grandeur of this axe
and its Celtic Locale, I started calling it ‘magog from an early stage in its
life. <br />
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It seemed to suit. </span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span>Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-33597883863300006762014-01-15T15:11:00.000-08:002014-01-15T15:11:45.407-08:00Stock Knife<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Last August, at the National forest wood fair at Beacon
Hill, I met a traditional Windsor chair maker. <br />
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A few months later he visited the workshop and we discussed our shared interest
in old tools and how interconnected our two crafts used to be. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://www.windsorchairsuk.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Windsor-Chair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.windsorchairsuk.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Windsor-Chair.jpg" height="400" width="257" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We also chatted about Stock Knives. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">“What is a stock knife?” – is the first question many people
ask. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A stock knife is a distinctive, long woodworking tool that
has a strong handle, a blade of one kind or another and crucially a hook and
eye bolt that secure the tool to a sturdy bench. It is a hand tool with a
machine like action that uses leverage to maximum effect. A stock knife, when
used well, produces unique cuts in green timber- you try doing a continuous
curve over several inches with any other tool. What makes the device special is
the union of power and control the user has as the blade is always in contact
with the work; it never chops like a swung axe. Instead, it is applied to the
timber and the pushed through it, past it. The blade is fixed at one end
through an eye bolt allowing tremendous force to be exerted without the tool
moving out of the plane. </span></div>
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<a href="http://www.clogger.eu/images/stock%20knife.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.clogger.eu/images/stock%20knife.jpg" height="400" width="280" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I love them. I think they are very clever and wonderfully
sculptural. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Here is someone who really knows the tool, Jeremy Atkinson. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I should say that there is some variety in types. There are
smaller pegging knives which have a similar appearance to the massive clogging
knives but there are also the fascinating French Paroir that use the same
principles but take a different form.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Here is the tool I produced for the chairmaker. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The handle, blade and hook were all forged from separate
pieces and forge-welded together. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-50136288075539037442013-12-08T12:39:00.001-08:002013-12-08T12:39:39.858-08:00Novgorod Hook Knife
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A short while ago I was asked to produce a replica of this
artefact (bottom of image), found at the famous excavations at Novgorod, Russia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The digs there have brought a huge wealth of
objects forward detailing ordinary life, wealth and belief in the city between
10<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> and 15<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> centuries. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://users.stlcc.edu/mfuller/NovgorodMetalp.html">http://users.stlcc.edu/mfuller/NovgorodMetalp.html</a></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These finds are so important, as we tend to focus on marshal
aspects of society when we look back at those times. Shiny things, gold items,
swords and crowns usually capture the eye, but to me these humble objects are
of equal value. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">It’s also fascinating to me how little these ordinary
objects are unchanged by time. A successful design was realised early on and
remained as such until the 20<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> century where many regions of Europe
still made wooden table ware commonly. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">All I had to work from was the image shown and by best
judgment and understanding of materials and methods of the time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Until the modern era, hardenable edge steel was a metal of
value approaching that of silver and as such was used sparingly. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The reason for its value was the amount of
labour involved in its manufacture, with many ^hours^ between quarrying the
ore, smelting, carburisation and refinement. All of which was undertaken, of
course, by hand. All fuelled by charcoal which its self was felled, coaled and
transported etc. So we can see that in the same way as modern commerce, trade
and commodity were costly endeavours and this was reflected in the final
product. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">To make the steel “go further”, blacksmiths, weapon makers
and tool smiths would use cunning methods of forgewelding steel onto simpler,
cheaper “wrought iron” like materials.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">With these pressures on the historic blacksmith in mind, I
forged this blade with the same ethos using some “shear steel” ( wrought iron
that has been worked and re worked to expel excess amounts of silica but also
held at high temperature for sustained periods in a container packed tightly
with a carbon rich material such as charcoal or hoof. At these high
temperatures, the carbon diffuses in to the iron, allowing it eventually to be
hardened when quenched.) And wrought iron (the ubiquitous blacksmith material,
until the mid 20<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Wrought contains low amounts of carbon, sulphur, silica and some other
alloying elements all of which enter the metal when it is smelted with coal. It
has been called a crude material for it tendency to split when worked at lower
temperatures, but I find it very evocative to work with as its low carbon
content makes it incredibly smooth and soft to forge. It also has a distinctive
smell. At high temperatures, the silica liquefies and is expelled with each
hammer stroke but it also has interesting values as a fluxing agent, assisting
with forgewelding.).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Both of these pieces of material are themselves considerably
old. The shear steel was found by a friend when metal detecting on his land and
is an old file- when files ceased being made from shear, I cant tell you but I
know they were commonly made from “cast steel” (an early, homogenised low
silica carbon steel) from the mid 19<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> c, so its my assumption that
the file predates that era, by how much, I couldn’t say. The piece of wrought
is salvage from a derelict railing, also 19<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> century. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Interesting point for all you metal smiths out there,
wrought iron that is round stock was generally of much higher refinement than
square stock from the same time. This was because lower quality iron would have
been ripped apart when passed through the rollers. So, if you have a choice
between round and square, use the square for your etched, gnarly blades and the
round for fine forging on restoration jobs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first job was to “knock down” the pieces to a similar
size so that they could be joined together, I also had to fold and weld the
shear steel to itself.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DkKdIXJsSeg/UqTQpUiSmDI/AAAAAAAABBQ/DuHPfFvAwTg/s1600/DSCF3636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DkKdIXJsSeg/UqTQpUiSmDI/AAAAAAAABBQ/DuHPfFvAwTg/s400/DSCF3636.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The billet of shear was crimped over at the end to allow the
wrought to be inserted and welded together. I’ve seen this kind of weld prep
illustrated in how they used to “steel” chisels. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was satisfying to use no other joining
methods than this. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UZKyp5fAbhs/UqTQpaLjMpI/AAAAAAAABBY/V9mbPW1XQQs/s1600/DSCF3638.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UZKyp5fAbhs/UqTQpaLjMpI/AAAAAAAABBY/V9mbPW1XQQs/s400/DSCF3638.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JLjkXqKg4kU/UqTQpppwznI/AAAAAAAABBg/-BCGO25jWI8/s1600/DSCF3639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JLjkXqKg4kU/UqTQpppwznI/AAAAAAAABBg/-BCGO25jWI8/s400/DSCF3639.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Iron inside, wrapped in shear steel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_rwl49dr2MA/UqTSb3OygaI/AAAAAAAABBw/20vqbeWACzw/s1600/DSCF3644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_rwl49dr2MA/UqTSb3OygaI/AAAAAAAABBw/20vqbeWACzw/s400/DSCF3644.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mkQXYE3ItuM/UqTTwZTQ9iI/AAAAAAAABCI/4bFCR5IgxLM/s1600/DSCF3645.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mkQXYE3ItuM/UqTTwZTQ9iI/AAAAAAAABCI/4bFCR5IgxLM/s400/DSCF3645.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once the steel was fully welded, the “tang” was drawn down
and folded over to cover the first weld seam and welded again. This drew the
steel into the core of the tang adding an amount of spring and resilience once
the blade was hardened. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HHZOhO0dmAc/UqTTtnvO5CI/AAAAAAAABB8/ead3A1PQ_JA/s1600/DSCF3653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HHZOhO0dmAc/UqTTtnvO5CI/AAAAAAAABB8/ead3A1PQ_JA/s400/DSCF3653.JPG" width="400" /></a><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The steeled “blade” is in the tongs, the tang being welded.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DBTuaEwzvBw/UqTTvwA0DII/AAAAAAAABCM/vLpZQ6P465s/s1600/DSCF3655.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DBTuaEwzvBw/UqTTvwA0DII/AAAAAAAABCM/vLpZQ6P465s/s400/DSCF3655.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--77sEQMiDV0/UqTTwA0CiRI/AAAAAAAABCQ/mrYyYoi4qIM/s1600/DSCF3657.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--77sEQMiDV0/UqTTwA0CiRI/AAAAAAAABCQ/mrYyYoi4qIM/s400/DSCF3657.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once the piece was forged out, a first grind was done to
establish the bevel, exposing the steel on the edge but leaving the Iron on the
“top” of the blade. After the grind, the blade was shaped over the anvil a
little more grinding and finally hardened. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQ_8BuwLaJc/UqTWO4acGEI/AAAAAAAABCk/D1bLY1bopBc/s1600/DSCF3666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQ_8BuwLaJc/UqTWO4acGEI/AAAAAAAABCk/D1bLY1bopBc/s320/DSCF3666.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1NVn0NZycXA/UqTWOizM7wI/AAAAAAAABCc/W9IuckmFgz8/s1600/DSCF3667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1NVn0NZycXA/UqTWOizM7wI/AAAAAAAABCc/W9IuckmFgz8/s400/DSCF3667.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">You can see the steel edge revealed here. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eVYVsunC1BM/UqTWOT_cLHI/AAAAAAAABCg/Ytw-gx7aSZo/s1600/DSCF3669.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eVYVsunC1BM/UqTWOT_cLHI/AAAAAAAABCg/Ytw-gx7aSZo/s400/DSCF3669.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The shear steel took a good hardness, so I sharpened the
tool and gave it a light etch to reveal the construction in the blade.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mjJ9gprLL6g/UqTWQmlrbKI/AAAAAAAABC0/7lBLp8HPzak/s1600/DSCF3747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mjJ9gprLL6g/UqTWQmlrbKI/AAAAAAAABC0/7lBLp8HPzak/s400/DSCF3747.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CndgHXGxIwg/UqTWRkeFAsI/AAAAAAAABC4/kRg_YhKpSzM/s1600/DSCF3749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CndgHXGxIwg/UqTWRkeFAsI/AAAAAAAABC4/kRg_YhKpSzM/s400/DSCF3749.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uGNijgeQGNo/UqTWRtBKKRI/AAAAAAAABDA/et0-JCiaTgE/s1600/DSCF3752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uGNijgeQGNo/UqTWRtBKKRI/AAAAAAAABDA/et0-JCiaTgE/s400/DSCF3752.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-owq_DJGQVu4/UqTWSfUwknI/AAAAAAAABDE/QgU9vNn75D8/s1600/DSCF3758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-owq_DJGQVu4/UqTWSfUwknI/AAAAAAAABDE/QgU9vNn75D8/s400/DSCF3758.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I should also mention that the tool is left handed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This was an interesting project and so enjoyable to use the
ancient materials. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-11179185347283644222013-11-14T15:38:00.003-08:002013-11-14T15:39:13.756-08:00Large Bearded Axe<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A friend came by the workshop a short time ago to look at
collect a froe and a hook knife, we also discussed making an axe- something
about a kilo, double bevelled and bearded. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">At around the same time, this video did the rounds on
Facebook showing a wonderful axe forge in Maine. If you care about our lost industrial
heritage or the skill the human is capable of do yourself a favour and watch
this video. Take a moment to meditate on the thought that that firm shown represented
not only their endeavours and experimentations in tool making, but actually the
culmination of two and a half thousand years of research, material and process
development. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr4VTCwEfko">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr4VTCwEfko</a></div>
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<o:p></o:p></span>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is an old
anecdote that I will paraphrase (butcher) here, which perhaps hints at what I’m
trying to say. <br />
<br />
“A person enters a workshop and watches a potter/blacksmith/carpenter making a
beautiful bowl/scroll/joint and says<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Wow, that was
incredible- how long did that take you? Ten minutes? Half an hour? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The maker responds<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“20 years”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
<br />
The point is that in craft, every single movement and action is the product of
all the maker’s combined experiences leading up to that moment. Whilst someone
could learn the same task in a day they would not be able to understand and
implement it with the same nuance as the time served craftsperson. <br />
<br />
In a similar way, the traditional crafts are building not only on your own
experience but also your craft forbears and thus- <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">“How long did that axe take?” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Two and a half
thousand years” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the many interesting details of this
video was how they were “steeling” the edge of their axes with a horseshoe
shaped bit, wrapping around the softer iron body. I had read about this
technique and seen it illustrated before but actually seeing it implemented
inspired me try this method out as an experiment. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So, we begin with a piece of steel. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0dBk8UK045M/UoVQNo4VrMI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/3Y9hdFQZig0/s1600/DSCF3436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0dBk8UK045M/UoVQNo4VrMI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/3Y9hdFQZig0/s400/DSCF3436.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The start weight was around a kilo, I was expecting some
loss from forging and grinding, but also we would be adding weight with the
steel edge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This initial piece was forged and “upset” to form this "L"
shaped piece. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gJ2PN2tW908/UoVSv1mbTLI/AAAAAAAAA-c/G_qCaUeFiPw/s1600/DSCF3437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gJ2PN2tW908/UoVSv1mbTLI/AAAAAAAAA-c/G_qCaUeFiPw/s400/DSCF3437.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The edge steel was forged to give this cross section </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6PWdlZ9fnCw/UoVThjL6MCI/AAAAAAAAA-s/1VYzv9cD72U/s1600/DSCF3439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6PWdlZ9fnCw/UoVThjL6MCI/AAAAAAAAA-s/1VYzv9cD72U/s320/DSCF3439.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The body of the axe was cleaned and the edge rounded to
present a better face for welding. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JmG_AXuIQoE/UoVTfV9KKHI/AAAAAAAAA-k/XAbLbU7p7PU/s1600/DSCF3440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JmG_AXuIQoE/UoVTfV9KKHI/AAAAAAAAA-k/XAbLbU7p7PU/s320/DSCF3440.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The edge steel was formed into the “u” shaped stock that
mated well with the mild steel body. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xY9qN58FoMI/UoVTitiB-2I/AAAAAAAAA-0/6ghe2ZSlTk8/s1600/DSCF3441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xY9qN58FoMI/UoVTitiB-2I/AAAAAAAAA-0/6ghe2ZSlTk8/s320/DSCF3441.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The two pieces were brought together and fitted tightly before
being brought to higher temp and having flux applied before the final welding
phase could begin. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">And now an apology….. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I forgot my camera! So there are no pictures of the middle
moments where the eye is formed using the “asymmetric method” and forge-welded
together. So yes, sorry about that. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Must. Try. Harder.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
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The best I can offer is this image of the body before the
eye was formed, showing where I was going to divide the stock up. <o:p></o:p></div>
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And then suddenly…… <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>An AXE! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>So this is where we arrived- something hefty at about 1100
grams with a true razor for its 7 inch edge and a neat beard. </div>
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<o:p></o:p> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Regards the “overlay” method for the edge- I found it easier
to implement once the stock was prepared. I will think more about this on
following tools. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Thanks for looking.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-58224423719394588892013-10-27T16:37:00.001-07:002013-10-27T16:47:09.784-07:00Hook Knives<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These rather strange looking curved blades were nearly an
extinct tool until the recent renaissance in green- wood working. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wooden table ware (called “Treen”) that
they are instrumental in producing has been ubiquitous throughout Europe for millennia,
only in recent decades has industrial process allowed ceramic bowls and plates to
become truly commonplace at the table. That said, as recently as the 1950’s and
60’s there were still regions of the UK where the Turners could still be found
producing green wood wares for everyday use and more commonly on the continent.
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The knives appear, outwardly, to be a simple thing- a bent, single edged blade-
however when one sets about to use and make them their hidden complexity
becomes apparent… <br />
<br />
The difference between a hook knife being a pleasure and a pain to use is
subtle and nuanced, a matter of Geometry and attention to detail.<br />
<br />
Firstly, the blade blanks are forged. The steel I am using here contains
between 1.1 and 1.2% carbon. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first point of interest that we come across is that in
order for the inside of the blade to be flat on the finished, curved knife, they
must first be hollow-ground whilst the piece is still straight.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is because the inside of the knife will
be compressed when it is bent- making the interior cross section convex, if the
forged-in flatness was left uncorrected. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Additionally, the blunt edge must be ground to a radius that
doesn’t interfere with the curving cut, this again is done when the blade is
straight. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The bevel at the edge is also partially ground at this point
as it would be close to impossible to grind one evenly once the piece is
curved. If it is left too thick, it will more difficult to sharpen after
hardening as it will be… well, hard. If it is too thinly ground, the edge can
be easily overheated causing the steel to lose carbon and thus making it harden
less effectively. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These different shapes can be seen together in cross
section. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></o:p><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After this first grinding phase the work is reheated and the
initial, acute bend in the ricasso (blunt) area is put and the curve is delicately
put in either around a former for the consistently radius “twca cam” style
traditional knife or freehand for the modern, versatile “compound” hook.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Care being taken not to damage the ground in
cross section, which could be easily done whilst the metal is soft.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Twca Cam blades</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<o:p></o:p></span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></div>
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Once hardened they are tempered for an hour to relieve the brittleness
and then ground sharp. This is tricky because each blade must be
continuously moved to keep the grind smooth and even. The blades are sharpened and
polished with a high grit buffing compound, leaving a mirror finish. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>After final sharpening I give each blade its second temper
for an hour to ensure it is fully stress relieved and at it’s most resilient. </div>
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<o:p><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
The tempering process causes a range of oxide colours to
form on the steel surface, these colours precisely indicate temperature. This golden
colour, whilst permanent is exactly one molecule thick and so, easily removed
with a gentle stropping- it is, though, very beautiful and as such I have been
leaving it in place as a proof and a decoration.</div>
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These knives are an interesting thing to make and ive been
very satisfied with how well they cut. <br />
<br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Please
contact me either on my Facebook page or by leaving a comment here</span></o:p></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/JLBurrellArtistMetalsmith">https://www.facebook.com/JLBurrellArtistMetalsmith</a></span></o:p></div>
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-2504577266130571752013-10-25T16:23:00.001-07:002013-10-25T16:23:25.707-07:00Bespoke carving axe
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I had the pleasure of forging an ultra-lightweight carving
axe for a customer this week, coming in at about 550g. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These smaller axes are such a joy to forge – they are
condensed essence of axe. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This one has a forge welded bit and a mild steel body, the
eye was hot punched. </span></div>
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I started with a short piece of 20 x 40mm mild steel <o:p></o:p></div>
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This was then upset before the edge was split, and a
tapering carbon steel insert was inserted<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This was edge piece inserted hot, set and then forge welded
by hand <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The eye was hot punched and drifted, the edge for was
refined, and everything was straightened up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once forging is
completed, the piece was heated one more time and allowed to cool naturally to
relieve stress- this is called “normalising” and is the first phase of the heat
treatment. After this cycle, the edge is ground to a nearly sharp state and
then the axe is heated once again and finally quenched in oil to harden. After hardening
the axe went in to temper for an hour to remove stress and thus add resilience by
reducing the brittleness of the edge. </span></div>
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-49304523699668718262013-10-20T15:32:00.000-07:002013-10-20T15:33:28.885-07:00Knives and axes. <br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Its Autumn now and my breath is hanging around for a moment
before dispersing, the Jumpers are coming out and the shorts are definitely away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><br />
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I have done some more travelling since my last entry- to Sheffield to meet the
Last surgical instrument forger, to Plymouth to meet a legend and soon
hopefully to Gloucester and to London to see some friends and fellows. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Ive been busy and its been a long time since my last update
so I want to just share some pictures today and revisit specifics in more
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A "goosewing" hatchet, for workshop hewing and preparing timber for planning after being split. Made with a forge-welded construction.</span></div>
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Froe with turned, self-wedging ash handle</div>
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I bought a wood lathe so had to forge my own tools as wells turn the handles for them. the timber here is green sycamore from the farm where our workshop is. </div>
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Single bevelled carving knives hand forged from 1.1% carbon steel. These are available for sale, £40 per blade + £15 fitted with a handle. </div>
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a Sycamore spoon, carved with said knife. </div>
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Using a stock knife I have forged to carve a bowl. More on this piece to follow. </div>
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Lightweight Carving axe (500g) with welded in steel edge. <br />
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the same axe finished and fitted with a Yew wood haft, carved by knife to allow the natural undulations of the timber to add form, beauty as well as strength.</div>
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small carving knife with spalted beech handle, green chord ferule.</div>
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Hand forged "hook" knives for bowl and spoon carving, forged from 1.1% c steel, shown here with the deep golden hue from the tempering process. </div>
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These Hook knives are available in a range of styles and radii for £45.</div>
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there is more to come on these blades as they are a subtle and complex tool to create. </div>
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. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-49104934921582423992013-08-14T16:19:00.000-07:002013-08-14T16:19:19.748-07:00Froe or cleaving axe.
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The froe has made a bit of a comeback in recent years after
fading into total obscurity. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It is a curios looking tool, “L” shaped with a sturdy eye,
sharp edge and a long stick handle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Froes
and froe-like tools have a heritage going back at least a thousand years as a pivotal
tools for working greenwood, (a method that principally deals with split, not
sawn timber). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Traditionally used in the production of wooden roof shingles
or lathes for traditional lime plaster work, the Froe has been recently been
rediscovered as an alternative to the axe as a log splitting tool.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Placed on the log, and struck on the back of the steel blade
with a heavy wooden maul, a sturdy Froe can make short work of even twisted or
bent timber as all of the energy of the strike will go between the natural
grain. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">If the timber doesn’t split cleanly, the tool is sharp
enough to sever any lingering fibres.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The froes I have made were hand forged from my own laminated
carbon steel with mild steel core and mild steel outer layers. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This composite structure imparts a very high
level of toughness and tolerance to the kind of twisting and percussive force
that goes with this kind of tool. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
very similar in composition to a well-made sword! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These have been made using what is known as an “asymmetric wrapped
eye”, forged from the same piece of steel as the body and then forge welded
back onto itself. This forms one of the strongest eyes, but also is one of most
elegant methods in blacksmithing and is more often seen in ancient axes as it
causes the material to “flow” around the eye. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-66613468693965754572013-08-11T16:38:00.000-07:002013-08-11T16:38:17.248-07:00Carpenters Side Axes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
These<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Hand made <span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">si</span>de axes are intended to prepare split or sawn timber
for planning or used to directly hew timber to finish. They used to a
ubiquitous tool for traditional furniture making or even timber framing. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These axes were made after discussing a particular pattern
of German hewing hatchet seen here</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p><a href="http://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2012/12/13/the-endless-look-at-hewing-hatchets/">http://pfollansbee.wordpress.com/2012/12/13/the-endless-look-at-hewing-hatchets/</a></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This form of the axe – the “Fuchs” hatchet, seems, to me to
be the best considered and most beautiful <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>side axe design.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The two axes that I have made are my first
explorations towards producing axes that are similar to that form. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The starting stock was 35 x 35, which was first split with a
grinder and then opened up with the hot chisel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Carbon steel inserts were hammered in to the hot mild steel
which makes a very tight fitting joint. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The
internal faces were cleaned to aid the welding phase </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Illustrating balance<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Shown
next to my old<span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">
</span>Kent style <span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">hat</span>chet for scale</div>
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Despite their apparent size, each head weighs only 2.2Lbs
(1Kg) making them very wieldable<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The broader of the two has had a temporary helve fitted and
was sharpened and it cuts beautifully. </span></div>
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span> </div>
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I am proud to say that I am now stamping all of my work with
my touch mark.</div>
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These axes are for sale for £180 each, or if you would like to
commission a new piece to meet your exact specifications please contact me by
leaving a comment or by finding me on my Facebook business page. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/JLBurrellArtistMetalsmith">https://www.facebook.com/JLBurrellArtistMetalsmith</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">Thank you. </span></div>
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<br />Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-73351298315481493032013-08-07T10:31:00.002-07:002013-08-07T10:31:24.499-07:00Fire screens<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Work For a private client, All hand forged mild steel with a raw beeswax finish and brass wire wrapped joints. </div>
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<br />Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-88530588056525851352013-07-06T15:13:00.000-07:002013-07-06T15:13:13.929-07:00Hearth Steel
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">There has been a lot of discussion on the forums about using
small hearths to melt low carbon iron and steel and carburise (adding of
carbon) it to produce a hardenable carbon steel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">After discussing some ideas with my friend, Dan Prendergast,
we decided to have some experiments trying to produce some of these “raw”
steels, at his workshop- Didbrook Forge in Gloucestershire. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<a href="http://www.didbrookforge.co.uk/">http://www.didbrookforge.co.uk/</a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Whilst the produce of one of these small furnaces appears
very much like a true “bloom” from a bloomery furnace, the method is dissimilar
because in a melting hearth, you do not start with ore and thus the whole
process is much simpler. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><br />
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<o:p></o:p><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Didbrook forge is a historic forge in the heart of
Gloucestershire, which has worked continuously as a forge for over a century
with parts of the house dating to the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>17<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup>
century and beyond. It was a true pleasure sharing the workspace with Dan for a
few days and being in an old workshop again, for me, was very reminiscent of my
father’s old forge, “The Wharf” which we left some 7 or 8 years ago and has now
subsequently been demolished.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I grew up
knowing the old workshop and I have always felt comfortable in such spaces.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I first met Dan when working at Hampton Court Palace in
London and discovered we had shared interests in Bladesmithing, Ironwork,
history and tradition. We had crossed paths before without meeting as I had
callously bought a powerhammer that Dan had been keenly watching for while…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">But back to our melting.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We had three attempts, each time altering the furnace a
little but each time using similar ingredients of mild steel bar and a small
quantity of cast iron, perhaps ten percent on each melt, which we believed
would likely add bursts of high carbon to the mix.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">For fuel, were supplied with some locally produced charcoal
from old coppice woodland, this charcoal was very good and clean to work with,
chopping well with a pleasant clink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Charcoal I have used previously had left me so filthy with the soot that
I was hesitant to handle the stuff too much, but this batch barely left a mark
on the skin when handled. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It was either Mark Green or Dan O’Connor<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>that I read had done a great deal of research
into the variability of charcoal and I remember that one of the traits of good
forge/furnace fuel was this cleanliness. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The ‘Coal was roughly split and chopped and half-heartedly
sieved to separate the very fine finings and powder from the proper sized
pieces before the hearths were lit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wVtw9tDnODM/UdhMYjXsNLI/AAAAAAAAAsU/Mk6jZ84rGnI/s1600/DSCF2174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wVtw9tDnODM/UdhMYjXsNLI/AAAAAAAAAsU/Mk6jZ84rGnI/s400/DSCF2174.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The first “furnace” was built quickly with house bricks and
a rich natural clay from Dan’s garden, using the water cooled tuyere from one
of the forges. The furnace was approx. 10 inches square, which with hindsight
was certainly much too large as we used much more charcoal than we needed to- That
said, it did work. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">We were both surprised to find a “bloom” in the basin,
swaddled with ceramic slag, weighing about 1200g. This first bloom was allowed
to cool before we cut it up to investigate and process it. We found it to be a
high carbon material so we decided to forge the pieces into strips, weld and
fold and weld again until we felt it was suitably consistent. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These processes
were undertaken with striking sledge and hand hammer as Dan’s very beautiful,
19<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup> century, French made power hammer is not quite up and running
yet, so it was porridge power all the way. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We then divided the
material and each forged a knife. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ir90pyflVs/UdiIzxTXLoI/AAAAAAAAAtw/sn7KJ0t-ofw/s1600/DSCF2217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9ir90pyflVs/UdiIzxTXLoI/AAAAAAAAAtw/sn7KJ0t-ofw/s400/DSCF2217.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Dan had in his collection an excellent little book called “Knives
and Scabbards” which featured artefacts taken from excavations in London dating
to the medieval period.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One blade form
took my fancy and I decided to produce a blade in that style as I felt the Hearth
steel’s material aesthetic qualities would suit it well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The hearth steel was forge welded in coke onto a wrought
iron back and tang to maximise the size of the blade, but also to best display
the limited amount of the decorative steel we had available. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The knives were both quenched in warm water and took great
hardness and did not crack. Dan proceeded to polish his knife and etched it,
revealing the wonderful character but also a distinct hardening line. My knife
has not progressed this far but I am optimistic for the vibrancy that will be
displayed in the steel once it is finished. The knife I am copying had a small
brass bolster which I will replicate. The knife will have horn or antler scales,
fitted with hand-made brass or copper tubular rivets. I will of course share
its progress here when I get round to it. We were both surprised and pleased at
how well the metal performed and we decided to proceed with a second burn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This time we forwent the brick furnace, instead opting for
an all clay and straw structure with a much reduced diameter and thus improved
fuel consumption. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UOCTi_uSzD4/UdiLx_N_fWI/AAAAAAAAAuA/mNCfjCk03gY/s1600/DSCF2265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UOCTi_uSzD4/UdiLx_N_fWI/AAAAAAAAAuA/mNCfjCk03gY/s400/DSCF2265.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The second burn was excellent, taking under an hour before
we decided the tuyere had become obstructed with the bloom and we stopped
feeding it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This time we forged the bloom right away after breaking the
furnace open. Working the bloom quickly with striking sledge and hand hammer- despite
being hot, the bloom was noticeably tough and resisted our force, yet it
displayed no “red-short” brittleness and held together very well with little to
no pieces coming off. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once we began squaring the stock it became clear that there
was a large split running neatly through the piece, dividing it nearly in half.
We decided to separate these two halves and proceeded to work them separately
as Dan’s forge has two large coke hearths. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I was struck with how solid the steel felt under the hammer
and we were both able to forge the material into barstock without folding the
bloom at all. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QQOCczdkymk/UdiQ9AcFh6I/AAAAAAAAAvA/h1L-5rY4-U8/s1600/DSCF2289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QQOCczdkymk/UdiQ9AcFh6I/AAAAAAAAAvA/h1L-5rY4-U8/s400/DSCF2289.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Spark testing again suggested some good high carbon content<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Dan did a quick polish and etch and it showed a lot of clear
activity.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These pieces were divided equally into seven parts before
being dispersed as much as possible in a stack to ensure optimum carbon
distribution, these were welded and folded an number of times and left as stock
for Dan to approach at a later time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The third furnaces followed more closely to the second burn,
only with more stout walls to help prevent collapse. The hearth bloom we
extracted from this furnace weighed 1400g and sparks with good carbon on each
of the points tested. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I took this raw bloom home to be forged at a later date as I
have a power hammer to help with the processing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This last burn took just over two hours from digging the
earth out of the yard, mixing the clay, building a furnace, lighting and doing
a burn and extracting the piece. I think we were both impressed at the speed of
the turnaround. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This was a fun experiment that produced some great steel,
I’m sure we’ll do it again, perhaps with a smelt as well…. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Thanks Dan, Vivian, Peanut and Betsy, it was a
real pleasure. </span>Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-5927448370084160762013-06-19T16:34:00.001-07:002013-06-19T16:34:31.491-07:00Grosse Messer
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Some time ago I was contacted by a customer to produce for
him a blunt, re-enactment sword in the style of a German “Grosse Messer”,
meaning literally “big knife”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These weapons of the renaissance form an intriguing family
that take a variety of form and sizes, the style we elected for is of the
longest type, a “krieges Messer”, a “war knife", identifying it as a type exclusively
intended for use by the professional soldier of the day. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What's unusual about that is that many of the Messers
were not exclusively for fighting; many occupied that intriguing place in the contemporary
society as tools, status symbols, civilian personal defence and hunting swords.
They existed as rudimentary <span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Civilian</span> implements and objects of the elite. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Their name “big knife” does not simply infer that they were
large single edge blades, but reveals something of their manufacture as they
were made by knife cutlers (a guild distinct from the sword cutlers) and also
exploited a legal loop hole of the time that a peasant could not own a sword,
yet there were no limits to what defined a knife, so knives became larger. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The design of this hand forged re-enactment sword was based
on several modern examples including the fine piece by Peter Johnsson, as well
as my own research on original pieces. The blade was forged from En9 carbon steel.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This is the story of the sword’s manufacture.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
The starting stock for the blade was 20 inches of 40x10 En9</div>
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<o:p> </o:p>This was forged out to 44 inches before a clip was forged in
and the bevels were established, which produced the natural curve.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Once the outline of the sword had been formed with the
bevels roughed forged, the spare material <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in the tang end, was cut off to be forged into
a punch to cut the hole in the guard. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The design called for a double fuller to be forged in so a
tool was made to this,<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
f</span>orging from both sides of the blade simultaneously<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once these were forged, it was time to begin hand
polishing<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the blade with files and
abrasives, the fullers were polished by wrapping 8mm diameter steel rods in
abrasive and rubbing in slow even movements to ensure that the fullers
terminates gracefully. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once a rough polish had been achieved it was time to move on
to the hilt parts, these were all hand forged from mild steel using a range of
techniques. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The starting stock was a piece of 20mm square<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This was knocked down to something like 16x 25. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The offcut from the tang was forged into a punch the same
width as the widest point on the tang (pommel end) and used to hot punch out
the slot. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once the slot had been cut, the billet was marked out and the
sections that would become the quillions were separated using a top set
forged some time ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Care was taken
not to intrude in to the newly punched slot, which would have damaged or
distorted it. </span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The blanks for the quillions were then drawn out under the
Goliath power hammer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The Nagel hand guard was forged carefully from one piece. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A large rasp was used to set the shoulder before, finally, a
bolster was employ to upset the back and fully square the shoulder. The long
rivet or mortise would be trimmed shorter before final assembly of the guard. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
After the clamour of forgework comes the inevitable fettling
and making of dust, quite course dust at this point, but dust all the same. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The cross piece and the nagel were shaped and formed with
files and abrasives until they were In a condition to marry.</div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These were fitted to the sword and progress could begin on fitting
the oak grip and the asymmetric pommel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once all the holes had been drilled and the timber fitted,
everything was secured. </span></div>
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<o:p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Like in the originals, copper shims were carefully
fabricated do ensure absolute tightness.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Copper tubes with steel rods were used as rivets- this
exactly replicates the method used on originals. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The nagel guard was peened into a counter sunk hole on the reverse,
piercing the blade securely in position. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once the mortise had been peened it was nearly
invisible. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The timber was sealed with several protective coats of
linseed oil, which encourages any interesting aspects of the grain
tremendously.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This also prevents filth from the hands marking the wood and
the tannins from the oak staining the skin. The contrast between wood, copper
and steel was also increased and the object is left with a satisfying variety
of textures and colours. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Two astrological symbols were carved into the grip upon the customer’s
request and the piece was finished. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Thank you. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-70492061193901822212013-04-30T14:12:00.001-07:002013-04-30T14:12:54.840-07:00Geibeg 24 Hilt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gc3fpCgAw-k/UYAvwhPxNpI/AAAAAAAAAjU/C-36o3YIxC0/s1600/DSCF1644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gc3fpCgAw-k/UYAvwhPxNpI/AAAAAAAAAjU/C-36o3YIxC0/s400/DSCF1644.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<br />Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-75955906416768939312013-04-06T16:40:00.001-07:002013-04-06T16:40:47.421-07:00Wood Smithing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">To make effective tools it is essential that the smith has
an intimate knowledge of how that tool is used. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">To better my understanding and therefore produce better, more
versatile tools I have been working in timber to produce these spoons. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The hatchet is bowtie construction, with a heavy poll for
balance. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These hatchets are available, forged to order. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-20379341872669501422013-03-05T14:31:00.003-08:002013-03-05T14:31:52.253-08:00The Second Sword<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This sword is the brother to the one shown here some time
ago in every sense, made from the same antique metal, made by the same method
and the same hand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab82/jlbass/DSCF9957_zpse60f12d3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://i852.photobucket.com/albums/ab82/jlbass/DSCF9957_zpse60f12d3.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">They are also a pair in their purpose as symbols of
dedication, heritage and protection to be exchanged between Bride and Groom. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So, the piece in question was begun in this way,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a stack is welded together and folded a dozen
times to create a unique, new piece of steel that aims for homogeneity but
achieves the lustrous, patterned metal that enticed our ancestors. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Loud Video! </div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/9k6Ca1HhBiU?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This folded steel is then drawn out into a long bar and
divided in two. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Between these two pieces a new piece of low carbon mild
steel is forge welded in, forming a “core” to the blade. </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This is now ready to be forged into the form of the sword,
with its important central groove or fuller being forged in, as not to
compromise the outer steel and reveal the soft steel core. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The Tang was forge welded on separately. This method was
widely used in the past.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">At this final stage, I noticed some cracks at the tip of the
sword, and on closer inspection it seemed likely that I had overheated this
part of the blade during the forge welding. This presented a quandary as I did
not want to start the blade again due to the significance held with both swords
being made from the same steel, but I also could not satisfactorily finish and
deliver a sword with such flaws. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">So it became clear to me that I needed to repair this sword.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Many ancient blades exhibit evidence of having been reforged
or welded at some point during their life. The sagas tell us that breakages
were a fairly common outcome of sword fighting and craftsman of the day had to
repair those blades deemed too valuable to simply discard as broken. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This is quite an achievement as a sword that breaks in use
is a sword that has been finished, has been ground and polished and is thus-
thin. Too thin perhaps for most smiths of any era to confidently re- forge weld
flawlessly to condition that the blade can be re-hardened, re- polished and
returned to use. But, this they did.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">With this is mind I began preparing for the repair which firstly
involved making more folded steel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The damaged area of the tip was cut off and the folded steel
was forged and divided into two pieces, each piece being carefully formed to
the tapering shape of the new tip. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The new steel was welded very carefully as a single
misplaced hammer blow would leave an impression beyond what could be removed
with careful grinding and polishing. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This was perhaps the most intense 20 minutes of forging I
have ever done and I am proud to say that the result was a flawless weld that
is as strong, if not stronger than the rest of the sword. </span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The fact that this area welded so well can be seen in the
final polish and etch of the blade, where the decorative grain of the sword
suddenly changes to the new steel. The contrast has to be looked for to be
found but is an element of detail unique to the life story of this blade and I
feel adds to the sense of history this sword. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>Careful etching reveals the subtle character of the steel.</o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The hilt on this sword was a lot more intricate and involved
than the hilt parts of the first sword. The pommel is loosely inspired by
type B as if tapers in two directions. The rough form was forged and hot
punched with a drift that was the clone of the tang, ensuring a tight fit with
no need for fettling. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The top and bottom guard were to be overlaid with brass and
copper. This challenging technique was very popular form of hilt embellishment
for centuries and involves the careful preparation of hundreds of grooves,
undercut and inlaid with wire. The wire is then planished (hammered with a
small hammer with a polished face) this method spreads the wires until they butt
up against each other. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Eventually, the entire surface of the guards was covered in this way. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">To commemorate the repair or healing of this blade I inlayed this symbol into the pommel. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
A wooden core was made from Pear wood, this will be wrapped
with brass wire to add another layer of detail and decoration. <br />
<o:p></o:p> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span></span><br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The power of these objects can only really felt when there
seen together, as a pair. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">As whole as these look, they aren’t yet fixed together. The peening
of the tang is left to the very last moment to allow for small adjustments. When
this final act has been finished, the swords are together, one object made from
many pieces. They come to life at this point their balance is final and they finally
feel like a sword.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-31004502750849341502013-02-04T06:18:00.001-08:002013-02-04T06:18:52.948-08:00Winter Work<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Busy weeks have gone by since my last update. </span></div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have made several axes, forged a Sword from my own folded
steel, begun a composite pattern welded bowie knife as well as begun and
finished some architectural commissions with my Father. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I would like to show some of father’s recent pieces before
showing mine. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Firstly this antique, French made charcoal burning stove we
restored from a ruined and rusty state. We had to make the three feet by 12”
cylinder by hand to fit the allocated slots in the casting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Castings were decorated with laurel
leaves and olives. It was a pretty thing and now will function for another
century to come. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Another example of what my Dad has made recently is this
large log basket with an understory for kindling. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Four
feet tall and three and a half feet wide.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span><br />
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve continued my work into axes for wood working producing
a few hatchets based on the full “bowtie” method used in the past. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">To be honest, I am very proud of these axes. The technique
allows for a tremendous variety in design whilst remaining thoroughly rooted in
tradition. Tradition is truth when it comes to tool making. After years of
working in craft from timber framing to jewellery to decorative ironwork, I have
found repeatedly the tried and tested tools and methods are by far and away the
most ergonomic, efficient and beautifully ways to achieve our goals. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The method in question here, the “bowtie”, creates
a thick, strong poll which adds beautiful balance and heft. The method of
drawing out the cheeks is a joy to me. The form of these axes can be entirely
achieved by hand forging with little to no amendments with a file or grinder.
In this sense it is, to me, pure. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These hatchet heads weigh 1.5lbs each and are available,
made to order. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another advantage to this
symmetrical design is their ambidexterity, as they simply need to be hafted
from either side for use with the left or right hand. </span></div>
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<span id="goog_1444926094"></span><span id="goog_1444926095"></span> <span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hafting in this case has been done with English oak we
reclaimed from a building site some months ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The hafts were initially axe- hewn then draw-knifed and filed and
scraped down for a smart finish. The eye was fitted tightly before the slot was
sawn and a fitted with a solid walnut wedge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">At all times when producing tool handles, effort must be
taken to observe the grain flow of the timber used, ensuring correct
orientation for maximum strength and durability. Whilst there are certainly
some woods that are unsuitable for hafting, many species that are over looked
by larger tool and axe manufacturers are more than adequate for smaller axe
types- particularly those axes that are used sensitively for specialised
purposes such as carving and hewing. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></o:p><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Axes are a passion for me because their making involves such
elegant process. If I can produce an axe for you, it would make me very happy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-14971001781387727772013-01-12T12:21:00.001-08:002013-01-12T12:21:19.987-08:00Socketed Side Axe<br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have been thinking about traditional forms of the axe used
in timber framing and log building, one of the quintessential types is the
“Side-Axe”, so called because it allows the user to stand to the side of the
timber or beam and hew without having to use the tool awkwardly as the bit
(blade) is orientated at an angle to the shaft. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Many of the older style of axes are exciting works of iron
that show millennia of evolution and improvements to design. There are other
methods of production that I want explore that involve many delicate process’.
The most important thing to understand about the design of older axes is that
they are made of Wrought Iron, not steel and as such the grain flow of the
material needs to be considered before an axe can be made. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I’ve made this axe using an altered form of the asymmetric
wrap that Jim Austin has been exploring in his research on Viking methods of construction;
my own research has shown that this technique was widely used in axe
manufacture until the modern age and the advent of homogenised, low to zero
slag alloys which can be worked more directly with punching and drifting
methods as the material wont splits apart under these stresses. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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This image shows an excavated Early modern broad axe with an exploded asymetric wrap on the eye. I have taken this image from the Portable Antiquities Scheme website. <br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The stock I began with was around 5 feet of 20x 50 mild
steel, the end of which was upset on a block on the floor to thicken the stock
further in anticipation of the forming a wide Bit later on as the axe I have
made is also of the “broad-axe” family having and edge length just over 6 inches.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Upsetting is done whilst the stock is still long and very
heavy to allow more force to be delivered in each strike.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">(Apologies, I have no video editing skills or software so
all of my films are Very loud! But then again, so is my work…. You have been
warned!) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Seven inches are measured and then chopped off and marked up
with a centre punch.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I also forged this tool, called a butcher, to help making
the early defining cuts. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The Butcher is a hafted top set normally struck by a
helper with a sledge but can be used by the smith if the work is held between
the legs. </span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></o:p> </div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A series of fullers and flatters are used to pull the steel
in the desired direction.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This is neatened up over my stake Anvil which has sharper
edges</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This neatened piece is measured to check symmetry and then
folded over and welded onto itself. The faces that are welded to each other are
over thick to allow multiple welding passes to ensure a thorough bond.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Before the weld is completed, the axe is held vertically and
the butcher is used again to fiercely cut through the weld I have just set,
this pushes the mass of the axe forward but also upsets the area of the weld,
thickening it again so it can be gently worked at welding temp to finish.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Once the eye had been mostly welded, the eye was trued up
with a large tapering square mandrill. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Square eyes are more common on older styles of working axe
and in my opinion allow for simpler fitting of a haft. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"></span></o:p><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Finaly the high carbon edge was inserted and welded in, the
form was forged out with fullers and flatters and left to normalise before
being rough ground and hardened. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The head was ground on the reverse side and the black scale
was treated with beeswax to protect against rust. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This axe head is for sale</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p> </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 10pt;">
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;">
</span>I am making some more
working axes in the coming weeks as well as some more decorative and embellished
styles using a range of techniques. I am available to make specialist axes of any kind, please
contact me either here or though my Facebook page here- <o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-64187979094652533812013-01-07T15:00:00.001-08:002013-01-07T15:02:23.946-08:00The Golden Bough<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">n the churchyard of a rural, former mining village in south
wales, there are some ancient yew trees. All of which pre-date the late Norman,
white washed church by some millennia. Amongst them, however, there are two
great, writhing trunks of particular distinction. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I say two trunks, as they are in fact one tree as genetics
have revealed. There is also written accounts of the tree being several feet
closer together in recent centuries and even one and the same in the more
distant past. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></o:p><span style="font-family: Calibri;">This single tree has also been shown to be at least five
thousand years old. At least five millennium. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">At the birth of human metal working this tree was
potentially already ancient, at the coming of the Iron age this tree was at
least two and a half thousand years old, it stood through the coming and going
of whole cultures, whole languages, the raising of Stone Henge, the fall of
Celtic Europe.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">At the time of Rome, this tree was already three thousand
years old; it has stood through Dane and Norman and Saxon invasion. It has seen
virtually all human technological development from stone to silicone and continues
to thrive as a vast and healthy specimen. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">These trees were highly revered for the majority of British history
for their longevity combined with their toxicity as a potent symbol of the
duality of life. I hold them in awe as a vast singular point of contact to our
own human history. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">It is quite an amazing thing. </span></div>
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I promise there will be more usual images of metal and fire
soon!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1905359299113364225.post-65987612086319325222013-01-04T14:51:00.003-08:002013-01-04T14:51:39.844-08:00Handmade Axe
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This axe head was made in the “bowtie” method out of mild
steel and an inserted bit of carbon steel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After hardening in water, the edge was sharpened and polished. The edge
was not etched to show the insert, rather the steel has been allowed, in use,
to reveal the gently undulating grey-white line that is characteristic of this
most traditional method. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">This axe has no particular form; rather it was made to
demonstrate the method. Modern steel is homogenised and generally without flaws
and inclusions. Ancient steel was the opposite and it is with this in mind that
various techniques for producing the eye on hafted tools were devised (JIM),
Whilst not strictly <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ancient </i>in the
same way as the Asymmetrical method explored by Jim Austin, The “bowtie” uses
the same principals, that is, awareness of the grain direction of wrought iron.
The un-welded head is forged symmetrically, with the appearance of a bowtie, hence
the name. The shape is then folded over onto itself and welded with the bit
inserted.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I gave this axe head to my second family for Christmas and I’ve
spent some time over the last few days producing a haft from the foraged Oak on
the mountain.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The axe has been hand hewed with an old pattern axe (the
head of which was made in the same bowtie method) paying attention to the
direction and preference of the wood grain. Observing the timber in this way
produces a stronger haft if there are some small knots and burls in the same
way as a bowyer making a traditional Yew longbow. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The timber has not been sanded; finished or sealed as yet; if
it was in constant use then timber would be sanded down, refined and sealed with
beeswax and linseed oil. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The journey of this axe has been enjoyable as it has
revolved around ancient techniques from the forging of the head to the
gathering of materials and tools used. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
Josh Burrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15353680838278482949noreply@blogger.com5